How to Make a Custom Dress Form
by Don McCunn
Custom Dress Forms require custom-fit slopers that show the shape of an individual body as described below. For instructions on how to make these slopers, see the book How to Make Sewing Patterns.
The concept for the fitted slopers is to position the darts (shown as dotted lines below) so that the grain of the fabric coincides with the natural "grain lines" of the body (shown as the solid lines). These "grain lines" of the body include horizontal lines along the upper back, full bust, waist, and the fullest part of the hips. The vertical "grain lines" are at center front and center back as well as half way between the darts and between the darts and the side seam.
Your sloper patterns should look somewhat like those below. The size, shape, location, and number of darts will depend on the contours of the specific body. For the women's front bodice if you only have one dart or a dart to the side seam, pivot the bust darts so that the dart for above the bust is in the armscye and the waist line is at right angles to the center front.
Copyright © 2015 by Donald H. McCunn